All gents to the dance floor...

I had two titles in mind for this post, it was this one or 'The unsexiest bra...". I decided to stick with the above as its more culturally significant but since its funny or just plain gross (I'll leave you to decide) I'll share with you the story behind the alternative title anyway. Since we have to pay to get our clothes washed, we tend to hold off to the last minute so we have a full load. So I was down to my last clean bra at the beginning of the week amd went to retrieve it from the wardrobe, only to find it had gone mouldy! It obviously has not taken kindly to hanging around in overstuffed rucksacks and humid wardrobes.

Its been a good couple of weeks since I posted and quite a lot has happpened since then both to me personally and to India, as I'm sure you've heard on the news.

We decided to kick off the busy weekend two weeks a go with a nice relaxing massage...or so we thought. We went to the local yoga centre as it was recommended in the guidebook and a both booked a back and shoulder massage. We should have run when they tried to offer us a front massage but oh no, we declined and continued. the next sign was that I had to have a man, again I should have run but no, I decided to go with it. Funnily enough I only began to realise that the whole fiaso was a big mistake when I was half naked without a towel or robe in sight, a room that looked like a morgue, with a man I didn't know who didn't speak at all let alone any English. Next door, Rachel wasn't having a much better time of it...she was helped out of her bra by the woman. After the inital horror of the experience and when we finally admitted that it was a rubbish massage, we found it pretty funny. I'm still determind to have a good massage in India, but it will not involve the Cyril Yoga Centre.

Our co-ordinator Jenny came over from Mumbai on Saturday and brought with her Kelsey from Australia, whos working on the same projects that I was in Mumbai (and also has the same opinions on it that I do, take note i-to-i). Judi also arrived on Sunday to spend the next two weeks with us working at Little Flower and St Alex's.

Myself, Rachel and Kelsey got on really well straight away. We stayed up half the night on the Saturday chatting away about the differences between England and Australia, how illogical and weird India can be and our mutual hatred for Crocs. I've always been a bit anti travelling in Australia personally. As amazing as I know it would be, I've just always felt that its one of those places that the world and his wife have been to and go the same places and drink in the same bars as the people down the road, which isn't something I'd ever want out of travelling.. But after hearing about it from a local's perspective I've softened a bit, its still not in my top 10 countries to visit (the list is growing rapidly) but its been bumped up a few places.

We spent Sunday in the traditional Goan fashion on the beach, wading through the sea of people selling bracelets and henna. Rachel got some henna done in Baga and we somehow attracted a crowd of about fifteen people either taking pictures or just watching us (I'm going to start thinking I'm something special soon if the locals don't stop inflating my ego). We also managed to attract a pretend taxi driver who offered us a lift back to Calangute when we were caught out in a monsoon downpour. It became clear that he was no taxi driver when after fifteen minutes walking there was still no car in which we could be taxied. We were, however offered a disco and his phone number, yet another offer we declined. We eventually managed to beg a taxi driver/would be drug dealer to drive us home, not before being offered 'hashish' ("I don't smoke, I only sell"...that makes it all ok then ha ha) and his phone number...the declined offers continue.

On the Monday my mum arrived and I checked into a bit of luxury for a few days. I thought it would be strange seeing her after so long but after a few minutes it was like I'd never been away. I loved showing her round the area, meeting everyone I was staying with and where I was working. I was especially glad that she got to meet Jenny as shes played a very pivotal part of my trip to India. On the Tuesday before she left she came to see the school I worked in, I think she was shocked at a) how different the schools are here and b) to see me enjoying working with kids (I know this has shocked many). We had a few chats about how my attitude towards certain things has changed since being here and I'm glad she got to see it first hand. I also loved having the luxury of hot showers, air conditioning, comfy beds, swimming pool and television. Having toasted sandwiches from room service and watching trashy American sitcoms was a much welcomed break from curry and Indian mattresses. Thank you mum for coming to see me, I miss you already xx.

This would also be ample time to explain my post title. Mum and I went on a boat trip on Monday evening down the River Mandovi in Panaji, which also included tradition Goan dancing. Of course the part of the evening came around where they wanted people to go up on the stage. Thankfully we were at the back when the man on the mic said "All ladies onto the dance floor please" but only two women reluctantly got up anyway. However when he said "All gents to the dance floor please", there was scrap between the men to be the first on the stage and they all went mental to Bollywood, Punjabi and Bangra music. Men pushing and shoving to get on the dance floor and being enthusiatic when they got there...this was not a sight our British eyes are used to seeing. A good cultural difference! 

I decided to treat myself to the ultimate India souvenir and get myself a saree. I was a bit sceptial at first as I didn't think that it would suit me and I definitely wasn't up for the crop top that you have to wear underneath. But once I tried one on in the shop I instantly fell in love with it, so I'm now the proud owner of a pink saree with a silver sequin trim. Rachel got one too and we're getting the tops tailor made locally (I've never had anything specially made for me before). I know I won't get to wear it often but when I do (I'm currently trying to think of/invent occasions) it'll make a change to the traditional ball dress and create a good talking point.

All is well on the project front. I really feel like I've made progress both in the school and at the orphanage. The nursery children are more settled now, theres more structure to the day and they're actually learning something. I've got to help teach them how to formulate their letters and learn words associated with each letter of the alphabet as well as be able to read them (we're now on E). In India, A is for apple, B is for ball and C is for Cat and they will not be told otherwise! The only downside is that some of the children obviously learn at a slower rate than others and don't get any help at home and there isn't any provision for extra help for those that are struggling. Thats whats good about the orphanage, we have small groups and you can give extra time to those that struggle more. Its taken me the best part of a month but I've got Punam to formulate letters properly and Andria picked up how to do the three times table almost instantly today after struggling with basic addition. 

It was Rachel and Judi's last day today so we've been scouring the local shops the last few nights to buy the girls at the orphanage some presents before they left. We got them some books (a request for a princess book was made), some pens, colouring books, card games, dolls (they only had one Barbie between fifty five) and DVDs (they've never seen Toy Story). We also took along some crisps (I thought I'd try and be a bit Indian and put some masala crisps in the basket, which ended up tasting like Mapusa market smells), biscuits, sweets, Coke and Sprite. After initally being a bit nervous about diving in, they literally did and all the sweets were gone in a couple of seconds. Its strange to think that you can get to eight and have never tasted fizzy drinks, no bad thing I suppose but we all need a break from banni (water).

We also got them Twister and they were very keen to learn how to play. There are a few unflattering photos of Rachel and I demonstrating how its done and some amazing ones of the girls enjoying their first Twister experience. I'm so glad we got them everything that we did and knowing that all the toys have gone to such a good and deserving home.

Judi and Rachel leave tomorrow and Sunday respectively so I just want to say thank you to them both for making the Calangute leg of my trip such a wonderful experience and for being such brilliant company. Extra good luck to Judi who has a thirty hour train trip to Delhi, after three fourteen hour ones the novelty has definitely worn off for me! So on Sunday I'll have another new person to share with, I've been lucky with everyone so far so heres to continuing my lucky streak.

I've finally started setting the plans in motion for my post India travels (which are only two weeks away, eeek). I mentioned last time that I thought there might be a problem visa wise with me going to Nepal. So I made the trip to the police headquarters in Panaji fully expecting a big fat no, but was pleasently surprised to be told that it would be fine. So I've booked my flight from Nepal to Thailand (and parted with more money than I would have liked). The good news that my flight lands ten minutes after the H-Towners, the bad news is that prior to that I have to change three times including a twelve hour wait in Delhi. I know that it'll all be worth it...but I'm still praying for wifi!

I can't sign off without first mentioning the bombings in Mumbai. As you'll all have seen on the news, three bombs explosions occured in the Opera House, Zaveri Baazar and Dadar West area of Mumbai on Wednesday 13th July killing eighteen people. When we were travelling back from Panaji on Wednesday night, we had to go through loads of police check points all along the way and at the time we didn't know why. It was only when Pauline switched on the tv during breakfast the next morning that we learnt about the bombings and that all the major cities and surrounding areas to Mumbai had been placed on high alert. Its a scary thought considering I was supposed to be there had my plans not changed and also knowing people that live there. Thankfully no one I know was affected but my thoughts are with the families of those who were and all the people of Mumbai.

Thats me all up to date, only two weeks left of this leg of my trip, then onto pastures new...bring on the next fortnight!

Missing everyone back in the UK and thinking of all those who have had important and poignant events recently.

Lots of love always from

Holly

xxx

Sometimes the drugs do work...

I probably should start by explaining my title...I managed to get my second cold in seven weeks last week. A cold in a hot country?! So with that, topped with my weird cough that comes around every now and again and feeling a bit sick and feverish after starting my anti malarials. I was feeling pretty sorry for myself by Tuesday, so much so that I just wanted to come home and snuggle on the sofa, under a duvet with something rubbish on the telly. Not sit tearfully in the bathroom (I can't seem to deal with the common cold abroad) before dragging myself to school to teach children their ABCs. This is before I discovered the wonders of Indian medicine...about twice as strong as ours and some cough medicine sorted me out and I'm back on form.

Anti malarials aren't all bad either. I hadn't needed them for Mumbai and  I'd subconsciously taken a bit of a 'laissez-faire', 'it won't happen to me...it'll be fine' attitude as it meant parting with quite a lot of money I don't currently have. I know this is totally stupid as malaria really isn't sexy (just ask Cheryl Cole) but I was starting to worry a little bit more with every mosquito bite (and there have been lots) and the booming voice of mother spoke so I bit the bullet and made my way to the chemist. I was literally speechless when I was asked to hand over a mere 467 rupees for six weeks worth of tablets, which is under a fiver. A months supply in the UK is 100 pounds, so it goes without saying that I was pretty chuffed...and will hopefully remain malaria free.

I'm now living in a little town called Calangute now and have been for the last fortnight. I'm in a home stay again living with our co-ordinator Jenny's sister in law Pauline and her husband Eddy (not the usual Indian type names I know but theirs a lot of Christians round here) and sharing a room with the lovely Rachel. I've been very lucky to have met and got on so well with everyone I've shared with in India. You don't have long to cram in as much as possible so you get to know people far quicker than you would in a normal situation. We share an annex off the back of the house and eat in the main house.

Speaking of the food, I'm pleased to report that all is still well (and always better than Mumbai) in that department. However, there's always enough food at the table to feed a family of four and Pauline will pass comment if she feels that we haven't eaten enough (which seems to be quite a lot in her opinion) so we've coined a new phrase to describe how we feel after one of Pauline's meals. We call it 'Pauline Full'. Curry, rice and chapatis does get repeatative though and cravings for 'normal' food have to obliged with the occasional Dominos pizza, much welcomed last Friday night! We were full after, but not 'Pauline Full'.

The projects are a lot more challenging than the previous ones. In the morning we work at the local 'Little Flower of Jesus' Kindergarten and Primary School. I work in the nursery, which I imagined would be like day care. But in actual fact the children are expected to spend the entire time in their seats, even during playtime which I'm still finding a little odd. I'm not big on standing up and talking in front of big crowds, so I was pretty scared when in a matter of minutes of walking into the classroom on the first day, the sister who teaches the nursery made me stand at the front of the class and simply said "Teach them something". I stood for what felt like an hour gawping at the forty little faces gawping back at me but managed to get out some words and actions for 'Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star' and they seemed happy with that. Its definitely given me more confidence to stand up in front of a crowd as I now think nothing of standing at the front of the class dancing about to nursery rhymes or the ABC.

Its been difficult getting used to going from being 'dee-dee' (an affectionate term for a female you're not related to) at day care to 'teacher' at school. I'm not an actually teacher in the qualified sense but its a much more formal environment where you are there to make them learn rather than as a playmate. The discipline isn't as harsh as it has been before and it can be frustrating when the Sister (the class is taught by a nun) would rather appease the children by giving them what they want when they cry rather than letting them wail it out for five minutes before they realise that crying and screaming won't get them their own way. Its good that they don't beat them with a stick but there are no other discipline procedures in place so I've tried to Super Nanny it up and introduce the 'naughty step', which I feel is a step in the right direction. As usual the Sister and I don't always see eye to eye.

As usual the characters that stand out for me make themselves known pretty quickly. There was one little girl who always wants to play catch at play time and seems like the happiest, most oblivious child in the world. I nicknamed her 'Baby Spice' as she always wears her hair in high bunchies, she disappeared for a while but was back today! The other is 'Crying Boy', whos wailing can be heard from our home stay. He screams and cries all day, everyday as soon as his mum or dad leaves. I took pity on him as I was that child at nursery myself. They put him in the hallway a lot of the time and my (almost) proudest moment was when it was my turn to sit with him whilst he screamed. I managed to get him to stop crying and coaxed him into moving closer and closer to the classroom, just enough so he could see what was going on but without having to be there. I'd almost got him into the classroom when his mum walked up to the front gates and shouted something at him, so of course he started crying again and clung to the gates. I was so frustrated that my hours worth of hard work had been blown in a few seconds so much so that I lost my cool, threw my arms in the air, yelled "Whats the point" and stomped back into the classroom. On par with some of the kids, but I'm still getting used to this whole teacher thing.

The afternoon is working at a girl's orphanage, much like I did in Merces but once again we're in the more formal role of 'teacher'. The children are in primary school so have a pretty good grasp of English (their favourite phrase being "Teacher noooo" when it comes to doing spellings). The standard is mixed, there's two girls who never cease to amaze me with their maths and spelling ability and its getting more difficult to come up with activities to do whilst remembering that English isn't their first language. Then there's some who I ask to spell cat and they'll start it with a J so its a challenge managing them all. Particularly as they all want you to focus your full attention on them individually and look at their work. For all its frustrations its immensely satisfying to watch them doing the worksheets you've written and when they finally do spell 'cat'.

As its been much more physically and emotionally draining, the weekends are much welcomed...poor Rachel. On her first full day in India, she fell in the Arabian sea, a drunk man decided to get his knob out on the beach, we got asked by pretty much every man on the beach if we could have our photo taken with them and we bumped into two guys calling themselves Del Boy and Rodney Plonker. It was a memorable day to say the least.

We spent last weekend in Old Goa and Panaji (Goa's capital). I'd been before with Lauren but I was happy to go round the town and St Augustine's ruins again. I'm not normally one for ruins after visiting Carisbrooke Castle on Ashwell Primary's school journey to the Isle of Wight. My ten year old brain registered a pile of old bricks that didn't resemble anything and that's pretty much been my opinion of ruins ever since. St Augustine's are actually worth looking at though and I've always felt a sense of calm and a good moment to step back and appreciate where I am. Its also provided a really good setting to play with my SLR and get some really good shots.

We had a 'normality' evening on Saturday night and went and had mushroom and cheese pasta (my first bowl of pasta in seven weeks) with a cheeky side of chips before going to the cinema to see 'Cars'. I like that you have to stand up and singing the national anthem before the start of the film and that you get an interval half way through, makes it more of an evening out. I'm really hoping that Harry Potter is released whilst I'm still here so I have a memorable place to see the last one!

We had another British day at the beach on Sunday. British as it was raining and windy all day, if you looked straight out to sea and didn't look at the people it could easily of been Clacton beach during the great British summer. I think the UK stole all the sun that day! We were actually looking for a fort that was supposed to be at the end of the beach, but when we got there there was a big shipwreck but nothing that resembled a fort so we must have been in the wrong place (definitely not surprising when I'm involved).

This weekend is set to be a busy one. Jenny arrives tomorrow, as does a new volunteer who will be staying with us for two weeks and another volunteer from the Mumbai project whose coming for the weekend. I'm really excited for next week as my mum arrives on Monday. I haven't seen her for two months and I'm really looking forward to showing her around my Indian home and what I've been doing whilst I've been here. I'm looking forward to having a few nights in a hotel that has 'rain' showers (no jug and bucket for me), wifi and a pool!

This is now my eighth week in India and I'm rapidly approaching the end of my time here, so I've been starting to think about what I'm going to do with the thirteen days between the end of the projects and Thailand (only 43 days to go guys). I'd ideally like to visit the other half of H Squared (Holly K) in Nepal, but there might be visa issues there and I don't think I could come to India and miss out on Delhi and the Taj Mahal so I'd like to squeeze those in too...decisions decisions decisions. Vietnam is also another country I've always wanted to see so I'm trying to arrange some time there after Thailand as its only next door. Lots of organising to be done (not my strong point). 

Well thats me thus far, four weeks left! I hope you've all enjoyed my blog so far and continue to do so.

I hope the good weather continues in the UK and that we get the good British summer we deserve. But if not, as the Bulmers advert says...it's glorious, loveable, eccentric, magnificent and ours! 

I shall leave you with a picture of Baga Beach, just down the road from where I'm staying. I took it back in May so the weather isn't quite like this now, but is beautiful all the same.

Lots of love from

Holly

xxx